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Re: Gas Steam Boiler

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Posted by joe on May 21, 2006 at 11:45:45:

In Reply to: Re: Gas Steam Boiler posted by HeatPro on May 19, 2006 at 20:25:56:

As Heatpro says, don't put baseboard and cast iron on same piping loop, but you can use both, provided they are on different loops. Each one gives off heat differently and at different rates. If they are on the same loop, for example, a cast iron radiator in the dining room and baseboard in the living room, and the livingroom and dining room are on one loop, the cast iron radiator may never get hot, if the thermostat is in the living room. The baseboard in the livingroom will heat more quickly to the set temperature, the thermostat will shut off, and the cast iron radiator in the dining room needed more time to get hot, but the thermostat turned off the boiler. You may always have a cold diningroom, if they are placed on the same loop.

The cost of copper piping has increased drastically. I'm going to be using 1/2" pex for my branch lines to and from the boiler and 1" copper for my supply and return piping to the boiler.

Don't forget the zone valves have to be installed on either the supply or return branch, and it can be installed even at the radiators. I havent decided if my zone valves will be installed in the basement or at the radiators yet (I don't have covers for my cast iron radiators right now). If you are using a slantfin type baseboard, you may not have space for a zone valve, unless you install dummy covers or a valve cover. I have purchased new zone valves on ebay for half of their regular cost. It doesn't hurt to watch ebay for a lot of zone valves. I was lucky enough to purchase a lot of 6 with free shipping.

If the space between the outside sheathing and the wood lath has no insulation, you can install your pex and insulate it. You can also run your lines down a closet or even the corner of a room, and put a small box around them later. Your insulation need not be fancy foam rubber insulation. I have insulated my big steam pipes in the basement with regular fiberglass insulation (the stuff you put in ceilings and walls) wrapped around my pipes, with plastic tie strings holding it in place. You can also secure it with string or even duct tape. I believe there is a non toxic type antifreeze (maybe glycol) that you can add to your closed water system to also prevent freezing.

I have been researching pex tubing to find a good flexible type tubing. From the little research I have done I think that Safelink pex aka Mr. Pex may be a good type of 1/2" pex to use.

There is some very good information from this forum and the residential #2 and 1 forums that you should also review for reference.

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: As Heatpro says, don't put baseboard and cast iron on same piping loop, but you can use both, provided they are on different loops. Each one gives off heat differently and at different rates. If they are on the same loop, for example, a cast iron radiator in the dining room and baseboard in the living room, and the livingroom and dining room are on one loop, the cast iron radiator may never get hot, if the thermostat is in the living room. The baseboard in the livingroom will heat more quickly to the set temperature, the thermostat will shut off, and the cast iron radiator in the dining room needed more time to get hot, but the thermostat turned off the boiler. You may always have a cold diningroom, if they are placed on the same loop. : The cost of copper piping has increased drastically. I'm going to be using 1/2" pex for my branch lines to and from the boiler and 1" copper for my supply and return piping to the boiler. : Don't forget the zone valves have to be installed on either the supply or return branch, and it can be installed even at the radiators. I havent decided if my zone valves will be installed in the basement or at the radiators yet (I don't have covers for my cast iron radiators right now). If you are using a slantfin type baseboard, you may not have space for a zone valve, unless you install dummy covers or a valve cover. I have purchased new zone valves on ebay for half of their regular cost. It doesn't hurt to watch ebay for a lot of zone valves. I was lucky enough to purchase a lot of 6 with free shipping. : If the space between the outside sheathing and the wood lath has no insulation, you can install your pex and insulate it. You can also run your lines down a closet or even the corner of a room, and put a small box around them later. Your insulation need not be fancy foam rubber insulation. I have insulated my big steam pipes in the basement with regular fiberglass insulation (the stuff you put in ceilings and walls) wrapped around my pipes, with plastic tie strings holding it in place. You can also secure it with string or even duct tape. I believe there is a non toxic type antifreeze (maybe glycol) that you can add to your closed water system to also prevent freezing. : I have been researching pex tubing to find a good flexible type tubing. From the little research I have done I think that Safelink pex aka Mr. Pex may be a good type of 1/2" pex to use. : There is some very good information from this forum and the residential #2 and 1 forums that you should also review for reference.

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